Lima...

Tomorrow I'll be heading over the mountains and away from the city that has been my week-long temporary home. Although Lima didn't impress me at first, it's grown on me now, with it's gorgeous coast, colonial-era neighbourhoods, freaky museums, and constant warmth...all of which will likely be hard to come by in the Sierra.

The view of the coast from Barranco - southern Lima (those are surfing beaches you see below)

I have enjoyed this week at the International Potato Centre; I have been warmly welcomed by all the staff in my department, who have taken me under their wing and taken me to buy a cell phone, on a guided tour through the agricultural university campus, on a day trip to a beach south of Lima, and throughout some of the more colonial residential neighbourhoods. I couldn't have asked for a better reception here, and it was great to feel welcome from the get-go.

A view of some of the "pueblos jovenes" (shanty towns) that ring the mountains around Lima

Yesterday, I went for a wander around downtown Lima, where I saw the presidential palace, a number of beautifully maintained and restored churches, and a very beautiful - if creepy - Franciscan abbey where Limenos were buried in the past: the thought was that being buried on holy ground (in mass, unmarked graves no less) bought you a closer link with heaven. They have dug up the old graves and now tour groups now pass through the catacombs filled with thousands and thousands of skulls and tibias (the bones which were more likely to make it through the process of decay and disintegration brought on by the liberal amounts of lime poured over the caskets). It was an eerie experience to say the least, particularly because I went during high mass, and above us we could hear the choir chanting and the priest preaching.

Then I went and ate Ceviche - a local dish of raw fish "cooked" in lemon and hot peppers - likely the cause of my stomach problems today...

Fly TACA

I have arrived safe and sound to the International Potato Centre (CIP) in Lima! My flight took off on time from Mexico City, and after a stop in San Jose, I arrived in Lima on time, was one of the first people off the plane and through migration, and my bags were the first ones to come off the carousel! I highly suggest TACA airlines...

The International Potato Centre is like a mini-paradise in the middle of Lima - it's a huge property, with fields and greenhouses for the different strains of potato they grow and their agricultural experiments. There are a number of buildings, all facing courtyards with jasmine, roses, birds of paradise and a number of other flowers alongside a soccer pitch and volleyball and tennis courts for the employees to use during lunch or after work. After seeing the madness and dirtiness of downtown Lima yesterday, I imagine people must love the tranquility of working at the CIP. The CIP has its own guest wing, where I have a private room, and they provide three meals a day to guests: lunch is shared with all the employees (300 in total) of the Centre. It's amazing so far!

I'll head up to Huancayo next week, where we pass over 4,800 metres before getting to Huancayo (3,200 metres)...I have some altitude pills and apparently most buses and trains carry oxygen in case anyone gets sick. I've been told it's important to keep my head and neck warm, although why? I'm not so sure...

Oaxaca

In honour of us both having vacations at the same time, Oliver and I decided to take on a whirlwind trip around Oaxaca, visiting his family, birthplace, high school, and of course the beaches. Somehow we managed to accomplish in 11 days what we could have taken a month to do, and we had a blast the whole time! The itinerary went a little something like this:

We started our trip in Oaxaca city, home to colonial-era architecture, delicious food, and a bustling downtown. From there, we headed over the twisting roads of the Sierra Madre del Sur in a small truck (not a great idea for people prone to queasiness) to arrive at Mazunte beach, where we were graced with two wave-free days, a town carnival, and a never-ending supply of seafood and guacamole.

And then it was off the the Tehuantepec Isthmus, where I met Oliver's grand-parents, aunts, uncles, cousins and old friends for the first time. The landscape in the south made us think we might be in Colombia or Costa Rica - lush with green fields, palm trees and hills in the distance.

The women of the region traditionally wear a huipil and enaguas (hand-woven blouse and long skirt), particularly when they go to dances and other parties.

The day we visited with Oliver's father's family in "Barrio de la Soledad" was also coincidently the day the town annually washes the clothes of their patron Virgen Mary and then procedes to host a party. My "huipil-less-ness" for the party was quickly solved when Oliver's cousin lent me one of hers - don't we make a cute couple!?

It was such a beautiful trip, filled with laughter, great stories, and incredible food. I felt so fortunate that people opened their doors and hearts to me, and so glad to be able to get a glimpse into Oliver's family and childhood.

Taking off!

I'll be leaving on Friday morning to Mexico...it still seems surreal that I'll be gone for so long but I'm also looking forward to everything that lies ahead, in particular sampling the 5000 varieties of potato that apparently exist!

My travels will take me first to Chiapas and Oaxaca with Oliver for 11 days, where we'll visit with his family, relax on a beach and go to a festival in Tehuantepec before I ship off to Lima to work as an intern with the International Potato Centre ( http://www.cipotato.org/) on their "healthy and sustainable horticulture production" project in the Andean communities around Huancayo, Peru. While all of my activities and projects aren't yet finalized, I will primarily be working on integrating health into the other activities taking place in the area, assessing the burden of disease in potato farming families related to pesticide use, connecting with other regional organizations with similar aims and working on a food security program.

Some maps of Peru and the area where I'll be in particular

Although I am looking forward to this possibility and to travelling again, I know that I will miss everyone here, and Canada life overall. I'll be keeping you all posted while I attempt to swim in the Mexican surf, sample spuds, try to avoid being sprayed with pesticides, hike up Machu Picchu, and arrive back home safely!

Lots of love to you all,

Bron